Facial peeling is an increasingly popular aesthetic treatment that aims to improve the appearance of the skin, making it smoother, brighter and younger. This procedure consists of the application of chemical substances or other methods that remove dead cells and superficial impurities from the skin, thus stimulating the process of cell renewal. It is therefore a real chemical cosmetic treatment whose purpose is to remove the most superficial layer of the epidermis of the face, avoiding the most delicate areas (such as the eye contour and lips), with the aim of promoting the natural breathing of the skin and improving its general well-being and state of health [1].
This article aims to give a brief description of this treatment and how it is performed, exploring the various benefits that – if done well – it can bring to the skin of the face. We will also give some indications on the best time to undergo this treatment, and we will analyze the main differences between facial peeling and scrubs, with some advice on how to perform them correctly.
What is facial peeling and what are its benefits?
We can define [1] facial peeling as an aesthetic medicine procedure that involves the exfoliation of the facial skin through the application of chemical substances or the use of mechanical methods. The aim is essentially to remove dead cells, dirt and superficial impurities present on the skin, a procedure that promotes physiological cell renewal and improves the beauty of the skin.
There are different types [2, 5] of facial peels, each of which is designed to suit the specific needs of the skin and the skin problems to be treated. Superficial peels are gentle and act only on the outermost layer of the skin; they are mainly used to improve the texture of the epidermis, to reduce slight skin discolorations and to refine the pores. Medium peels act more deeply, treating fine wrinkles, more evident skin blemishes and acne scars. Finally, deep peels are the most intense and act deeply, treating deep wrinkles, more evident scars and persistent skin blemishes.
The benefits of facial peeling are numerous and vary according to the type of peeling performed [4, 5]. First of all, the exfoliating action of the skin stimulates the production of collagen and elastin, two proteins essential for skin firmness and elasticity. This means that facial peeling can help reduce spots (sun spots, melasma [6], hyperpigmentation), skin discoloration and wrinkles, reduce the visibility of hyperkeratosis (particular thickening of the skin) and make the skin firmer and brighter, smoother and more even, counteracting the effects of aging and giving it a younger appearance.
Furthermore, facial peeling can also be an effective solution for those who suffer from acne and acne scars: by removing impurities from the skin and stimulating cell turnover, peeling can help reduce the onset of new acne breakouts and improve the appearance of pre-existing scars [7]. Similarly, facial peeling can be useful for those who want to reduce the presence of enlarged pores on the skin: deep cleansing of the pores, in fact, removes excess sebum and dead cells.
When to do a face peel
An important premise is necessary here: it must be emphasized that, although facial peeling is a safe and effective treatment, it must be performed by qualified professionals. The chemical substances used in peeling and their concentration must be carefully evaluated based on the type of skin and the individual needs of the patient: only with an adequate and personalized treatment, facial peeling can provide the promised benefits.
The best time to undergo a facial peel depends on several factors, including the type of peel, the condition of the skin and individual needs; while the frequency with which a peel can be performed also varies based on the sensitivity of the skin and its regeneration capacity. In general, however, it can be established [5] that superficial facial peels, which act only on the outermost layer of the skin, can be performed more frequently (for example every 10 days for 5 or 6 consecutive sessions, followed by a possible "maintenance therapy" once a month, or in cycles of 10 peels, one every 15 days). Medium or deep peels, which act in depth and treat more evident skin problems, require more time to ensure correct skin recovery: usually, it is recommended to undergo a medium peel every 12-24 months, depending on the type of skin and individual needs.
Regardless of the type of facial peel you choose, it is essential to undergo the treatment under the supervision of qualified professionals and carefully follow the post-treatment instructions to ensure proper healing of the skin and optimal results. Likewise, before undergoing a facial peel, it is always advisable to consult with an experienced dermatologist or aesthetician, who will evaluate the condition of the skin, individual needs and the most suitable type of peel.
Facial peeling or scrub?
Many people confuse facial peels with scrubs, since both treatments exfoliate the skin. However, they have different methods and results [2]: facial peels use chemicals, such as alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHA), which act more deeply than scrubs. The latter, on the other hand, are mechanical treatments that use granules or abrasive particles to exfoliate the skin: they have a more superficial action than facial peels, and their purpose is mainly to eliminate dead cells and impurities present on the skin's surface. In addition, scrubs can be used as home treatments, while chemical-based facial peels require the supervision of a qualified professional.
Among the advantages of choosing a scrub treatment we recall:
- Benefits of a superficial treatment, suitable for delicately exfoliating dead cells and improving skin texture without penetrating deeply and without side effects;
- Ease and convenience of use: scrubs can be used comfortably at home as home treatments, through various options available on the market, both ready-made products and DIY recipes;
- Adaptability to sensitive skin, due to the fact that the user has control over the pressure and intensity of the massage on the skin;
- Instant effect: skin immediately appears brighter and smoother after a scrub.
Peeling, on the other hand, ensures:
- A deeper action: peeling has the ability to penetrate deeper layers of the skin, stimulating the production of collagen and elastin and improving the skin's texture and firmness;
- Benefits of a specific treatment, since it can be customized to treat various types of skin problems (wrinkles, sun spots, acne scars, discoloration and other blemishes);
- Long-lasting effectiveness, with results that last longer than scrubs;
- The safety of professional supervision, which guarantees an accurate assessment of the skin by experts and a personalized and safe treatment.
Both treatments have their advantages and can be chosen according to individual needs and skin type.
How to do a facial peel
[4] Usually, the dermatologist first applies a preparatory lotion on perfectly cleansed skin, then proceeds with the application of the peeling gel, using a brush with great care. The gel can be formulated with different ingredients:
- Glycolic acid peeling, also known as fruit acid peeling or alpha-hydroxy acid peeling, because the active ingredient is derived from sugar cane, is very effective. In its most recent formulation, called glicodex , it is presented as a substance composed of glycolic acid and dextrin. Although it is usually well tolerated, it can cause redness of the skin immediately after application, so it is necessary to rinse the face well with water to remove the acid.
- Peeling with salicylic acid: this is a treatment particularly indicated for oily skin, or skin with small pimples and boils or superficial spots. Generally, alcoholic solutions of salicylic acid are used, which provide concentrations ranging from 10% to 30%, based on the desired treatment. Its peculiarity consists in the appearance of a thin white patina (manifestation of microcrystals of salicylic acid) and accompanied by a slight burning sensation; it is not uncommon for a slight temporary flaking to appear in the following days.
- Peeling with trichloroacetic acid (TCA), which is usually performed as a treatment to eliminate acne scars and signs of skin aging. However, this procedure is not recommended for people with dark skin, since it can cause the appearance of persistent spots on certain phototypes. In the days following the treatment, it is also advisable to avoid exposure to the sun.
After the application time (which can vary from person to person based on skin type), the doctor proceeds with the removal of the gel with a cotton ball, and applies a soothing mask (which can be based on hyaluronic acid) that remains on for about 15 minutes: this precaution has the purpose of reducing the redness of the skin and restoring the hydrolipidic film, or the layer of water and fat that protects the skin from external agents. Finally, a nourishing and hydrating sunscreen is applied, equipped with a filter to protect against the sun's rays, and the procedure is concluded.
Sources
[1] TRECCANI Vocabulary, Entry peeling, URL: [https://www.treccani.it/vocabolario/peeling](https://www.treccani.it/vocabolario/peeling)
[2] Repubblica.it, Scrub, Gommage and Peeling: A Guide to Truth and False Myths, URL: [https://www.repubblica.it/moda-e-beauty/2021/10/05/news/scrub_esfoliante_corpo_viso_peeling_chimico_differenze-320688190/](https://www.repubblica.it/moda-e-beauty/2021/10/05/news/scrub_esfoliante_corpo_viso_peeling_chimico_differenze-320688190/)
[3] Blog by dermatologist Antonino Di Pietro, How to treat the skin after peeling, URL: [https://www.antoninodipietro.it/2000/06/come-trattare-la-pelle-dopo-il-peeling/](https://www.antoninodipietro.it/2000/06/come-trattare-la-pelle-dopo-il-peeling/)
[4] Blog by dermatologist Antonino Di Pietro, Chemical peeling: what is it and what is it for?, URL: [https://www.antoninodipietro.it/2011/05/il-peeling-cose-ea-cosa-serve/](https://www.antoninodipietro.it/2011/05/il-peeling-cose-ea-cosa-serve/)
[5] Blog by dermatologist Antonino Di Pietro, Peeling: for new and younger skin, URL: [https://www.antoninodipietro.it/2021/07/peeling-pelle-nuova-piu-giovane/](https://www.antoninodipietro.it/2021/07/peeling-pelle-nuova-piu-giovane/)
[6] MSD Manual, Melasma Entry, URL: [https://www.msdmanuals.com/en-us/home/skin-disorders/pigmentary-disorders/melasma?Query=melasma](https://www.msdmanuals.com/en-us/home/skin-disorders/pigmentary-disorders/melasma?Query=melasma)
[7] SWISSE, Pimples on the face and body: causes and remedies to eliminate them completely, URL: [ https://it.swisse.com/blogs/inestetismi-della-pelle/brufoli-su-viso-e-corpo-cause-e-rimedi ]( https://it.swisse.com/blogs/inestetismi-della-pelle/brufoli-su-viso-e-corpo-cause-e-rimedi )